Gangotri Glacier
By  Dr. Harshvanti Bisht, FRGS, Arjuna Award 1981, Reader Dept. Of Economics,
Govt. P.G.College, Uttarkashi, Member Indian Everest Expedition 1984
Courtesy: The Artists for Conservation “Flag Expedition #2” ~ David Rankin’s Watercolor Expedition into the Ganges Himalayas

The Gangotri-Gaumukh region lies between 78°55’E & 79°10’E and 30°51’N & 31°1’N in Uttarkashi district of Uttarakhand state in India. Towards the north of Gangotri-Gaumukh, lie the villages of Nelong and Jadung in the Jadh watershed, as well as the Tibet border. On the east can be found the holy sites of Kedarnath and Badrinath, on the south is Tehri district, and the western boundary comprises the Yamuna valley where Yamunotri can be found. The four together comprise the famous “Char Dham” of Uttarakhand, one of the holiest of Hindu pilgrimage circuits.

Gangotri Township is situated on the banks of river Bhagirathi and the confluence of river Bhagirathi and Kedar Ganga. As a small seasonal township, Gangotri is located 525km from India’s capital Delhi by road. Gangotri was declared a revenue village in 1960 by the Uttar Pradesh government. Construction of a giant iron bridge over the Jadh River at Bhaironghati in 1985 resulted in a large influx of pilgrims and tourists to Gangotri. Shortly after, a “Special Area Development Plan” was formed by the state government for the “balanced development” of Gangotri. Despite initial steps to establish the Gangotri National Park coming in 1989, earlier measures has accelerated illegal building construction in Gangotri. Dharali is the last migratory village of the area 25 km before Gangotri and includes modest tourist accommodation facilities.

Nine kilometers beyond Gangotri, Chirbasa (3606m) is located within a forest of Kail (blue pine) on the way to Gaumukh. At Chirbasa, there are 6-7 tea stalls catering to pilgrims and tourists. Another halting place, Bhojbasa (3792m), is named after Bhojpatra (birch) forests in the area, and located 14 km from Gangotri. It is presently totally denuded of the Bhojpatra trees. Today, the dead woods of Birch remind us of the past glory of the Birch forest. Moreover, the trek is poorly maintained and difficult to walk. From here onwards one has to walk mostly over the boulders. Gradually the tree line ends and alpine flora becomes visible. Gaumukh is located 4 km further up river from Bhojbasa. The snout of the 26 km-long Gangotri glacier, from where the main tributary (Bhagirathi) of the river Ganga, emerges, is located at an altitude of 3892m.

Gaumukh itself is 18 km from Gangotri. One can walk or take a pony ride over this distance. The glaciers of this area come under the Gangotri glacier system. Its ice surface occupies slightly over 200 sq. km and total volume is 20 cubic km. Locally, the glaciers are known as the bamak. The Gangotri glacier is one of the biggest glaciers in the world outside the Karakoram group. It has many tributary glaciers such as Raktavarna bamak (14km), Chaturangi bamak (14km), Kirti Bamak (5km), Meru bamak (5.5km), Swachanda bamak (5km) and Ghanohim (4km), etc. The snow-covered peaks of this area are a great attraction for mountaineers throughout the world. Prominent Among them are Shivling (6543m), Bhagirathi Group (I-6596m, II- 6512m, III-6454m.), Meru East (6261m), Gangotri Group (I-6672m, II-6590m, III-6577m), Bhrigupanth (6770m), Satopanth (7070m), Chaukhamba massive (7138m) and Rudugaira (5619m).The area includes some 40 6000m peaks and 2 peaks above 7000m.

Pilgrimage & Adventure Tourism
Pilgrimage to Gangotri is an age-old tradition, but tourism as a modern phenomenon was introduced in the seventh decade of the last century. Holy Scriptures says that Raja Bhagirath underwent strict penance to save the souls of his ancestors from the curse of Kapil Maharaj. Where after the Ganga descended to appear here. Ganga says to Raja Bhagirath, “I emerge from the Himalaya in ten forms, of which the eldest and among the most superior streams will follow you, while the rest will flow with me. O King, they will be known by many names on the earth, their very sight and touch will provide blessing for they are born of me. Bhagirath, this is the pilgrim centre called Gangotri.” (Skand Puraan Kedarkhand, Chapter 39-Sholak 40, 41). Since then Hindus come for the pilgrimage to Gangotri. In ear-lier times the Europeans came to the sources of river Ganga and Yamuna, but then their journeys were purely scientific and exploratory not as leisure, religious or adventure trips. But the last three decades of twentieth century changed the whole scenario of pilgrimage and tourism in this area. Gradually adventure tourism leaped to the Himalayan heights.

Impact of Pilgrimage & Tourism

Unfortunately, tourism has developed in an unplanned manner, resulting in haphazard building construction, drainage systems, and garbage heaps in Gangotri region. There is no infrastructure in place except for a single tourist bungalow situated at Bhojbasa.The unavailability of any alternative fuel source has resulted in the destruction of Birch forests and Juniper bushes. In fact, this beautiful Himalayan region has been ruined in the name of tourism and pilgrimage with more than a hundred thousand individuals visiting Gaumukh annually. In only a few short years of unplanned development, Gangotri itself has become yet another congested Himalayan town and Bhojbasa and Gaumukh into a cold desert. Thus in reality, this area which was described as one of the best high altitude tourism destinations for tourists and pilgrims has now become one of the most exploited by senseless mass tourism. Indeed, modern day consumerism is devouring the ecology of the region and ravaging the landscape. Juniper and Bhojpatra have been and continue to be cut for fuel and energy and garbage litters the path all the way to Gaumukh. Even the areas around the tea stalls are surrounded by rubbish heaps which create a distraction for the eye and soul. However most importantly, the destruction of the slow growing high altitude Birch forest and Juniper bushes in the Bhojbasa area is inflicting long term ecological damage to the otherwise arid heights. Moreover, the number of pilgrims and tourists to Gaumukh is increasing every year yet guest facilities remain slim. This is creating chaos during the tourist / pilgrimage season. The emerging middle class trend to avail summer holidays and go to the Himalayas en masse is emerging as another new threat. This is forcing huge crowds to the Himalayan heights in general and Gaumukh in particular. These huge crowds and their use-and-abuse mentality are killing the very essence of ancient Hindu pilgrimage.